Well, any apprehension or doubts I had about this trip have since dissipated --Today´s walk was amazing. There were many high hills (or maybe mountains--I don´t know but maybe Hugh Grant could come and measure them) but worth the climb as the views are extraordinary. Beautiful green hills dotted with charming little Basque style houses, sheep, cows and goats. The sea is gorgeous--from up high there is a great view of the beaches, fishing villages, and lots of little boats. The weather was stunning (about 70 and very clear, not humid, plus a nice breeze). After the first big hill I descended into a beautiful old village. The tourist office was housed in the former residence of Victor Hugo when he was writing there. They had converted it into a Victor Hugo musuem and had a nice slide show/presentation (in Enlgish even) where they read from his journals describing the area and then showed photos of the very places he was describing. I got some lunch fixings and ate in the central plaza and then took the 1 minute boat ride to the opposite side of the inlet to another cute village and continued onward. The last hour walking into San Sebastian was all up in the hills along the coast wtih smashing views of the blue water and rocky shore below. It was spectacular. I did get a little warm towards the end but much of the trail today was through forested areas so there was a lot of shade.
I donned for the first time my brand new and ridiculously large sunhat. When wearing it, I look like and elderly Korean woman exercising, or an elderly British woman gardening. I suspect to others I look like exactly what I am--an old American woman walking--with a giant wide brimmed hat. It helped a lot with the sun though.
Last night at the albergue in Irun I met a few others. I think everyone is French or Spanish. Most notably I have met Victor and his brother, Armando. They are Spanish retired men in their 60s and have walked several of these routes in Spain and are quite enthusiastic about it. Incredibly enough, with one or two exceptions, I seem to be the youngest one at the albergue. I talked with a French couple this morning and what with my complete mastery of French, I was able to ascertain that they are from a town very near the village of my friend, Isabelle, who I visited there years ago. They knew of her family due to Isabelle´s parents furniture business. (LAM--I did not tell them of our close connection to the mayor or our attendance at the antique car rally).
I walked mainly on my own today which was great--I did have a companion for awhile in the form of a very large, black goat. He was standing in the trail and at first I was bit startled as he was huge (I thought it was a pony at first)and had big horns and what initially I thought was a menacing look. But alas, he seemed friendly and walked just ahead of me on the trail for a few minutes. I thought when I got to the main road he would stay put but no, he continued with me for a bit right down the center of the road.
I am now in San Sebastian which, if you have not been here, is a really lovely city with a great beach. There is no pilgrim´s albergue here but the youth hostel reserves some beds for pilgrims. I have had a really great shower, washed clothes and am now using the free computer. I feel very clean and content. The hostel is a bit out from the center of town and I guess in a bit I will have to walk back down into town for dinner. I don´t mind but I might mind the walk back up the hill.
(Ina--I think you would really like this route. It is beautiful. If you ever do another walk you should come here)
(Char--can´t wait to hear of your plan for my next adventure. Is it the Inca trail?)
I hope everyone is enjoying the summer. I sure did today.
4 comments:
Go CMcQ! I bet you look like a model in your big hat! Do you have your Foster Grants? So happy you have great weather and views. I don't understand 2 things: Basque style houses and Hugh Grant measuring the mountains/hills. I love the goat story! Did he stand guard for you? I bet he wouldn't let Eva see. ;-)
Hugh Grant was in a movie ¨The Englishman who went up a hill and came down a mountain¨ where he measured mountains for maps. It´s cute. I guess basque style houses are kind of rustic little chalets with wooden shutters and flowers all over them. I do have my foster grants. I thought I lost them and almost went to the tourist office to see if i had left them there. it´s good that i didn´t as they were on my head.
As usual, I'm loving these posts. I too thought the goat story was fabulous. Any pictures of it?
I spent a day in San Sebastian at 15 and thought it was a lovely city. I can't wait to hear more about it.
Your posts are the highlight of my day. So glad you found a costly luxury hostel. Cannot BELIEVE you used the word "stunning" to describe the views. I am jealous that you and your enormous goat friend are nimbly navigating trails in balmy summer weather, seeing stunning beaches and views. You should have taken a picture of him wearing your hat. I cut some grass with the push mower today and -possibly due to lack of appropriate widebrimmed headgear- thought I was dying of heatstroke. BVN had to come over and bring me her cold wet Coolie Towel from out of her fridge Crispah Drawah. I am not making this up. Keep posting! Enjoy yourself!
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