After tomorrow I will have reached the half way point based on the amount of days that I have available to walk. Yet, oddly, I will not have completed half the mileage. So, if you do the math, or even if you don't, it means I have to walk more. If, things go as planned, I should be able to make it to Santiago by the skin of my teeth, without having to take a bus. The last few days have been good but fairly difficult due to the unseasonably warm weather. Although 80 degrees might be nice for a picnic, it is rather warm for walking. It was been quite hot. I can't complain too much though as it has been really quite beautiful. It has now been over two weeks of tremendously lovely weather. The last few days have been spent mostly in the company of "Eggyolk", my Catalan friend, and Alfonso, the French-Canadian/Colombian doctor. They have been very kind and yesterday when they found me sitting in the shade with no will to continue, they rallied me onward. We have entered more grazing areas but this time with actual grass and there are loads of cows and bulls. There are lots of cute little calves as well which are just adorable. The last few days we have been heading for mountains and today we have reached them. The last few miles going uphill, on the road, were pretty tough but the albergue is very nice and the town, Baños de Montemayor, is charming. Lots of old buildings made of stone and wood and as they are higher up, where they got a lot of snow, they have split front doors where you can open the top half and leave the bottom half (which in winter would be difficult to open due to the snow) shut. Yesterday while I was walking I went by a little cow pond and as I passed I heard a noise and looked and there was a little wave at the edge of the pond. I could not work out how the pond could have a wave but then I looked carefully and realized that as I passed, I startled about 40 turtles who simultaneously left the sunny shore for the pond, causing the wave.
I am sorry I am unable to post any pictures and I am also sorry that it seems I broke my camera. I usually keep my camera in my sleeping bag at night to prevent theft (which thusfar is probably a bit on the cautious side as the other walkers don't seem very criminal like). In any case, each morning I shake out my sleeping bag really well just in case there are bed bugs or any other vermin in there. Yesterday morning, it seems I forgot to remove the camera before the customary shaking of the sleeping bag. Alfonso provided some medical tape and I tried to fix it but I can't quite get it to work. The camera was already damaged and on the outs but I hate to miss out on photo opportunities....one of which was yesterday in Càparra, an old Roman settlement which, among all the excavated ruins, has a very tall Roman arch which is actually the symbol of this entire route and is featured on all of the waymarkers. My new friends have taken pictures and promise to send them to me. On Friday, I should arrive in Salamanca where I lived many years ago. It is such a great city and will be strange, but really good, to be there again. All is well. The days are hard and long but today was pretty good and I'm feeling pretty good. I complain a lot about how hard it is but I probably have it pretty easy. My Australian friend, Phillip, walked this route years ago before there was much of any type of infrastructure. He would likely be amazed at the available accomodation and the way that the route is pretty well marked. As always, no time to proofread.
2 comments:
You're amazing. We continue to root for you...thought my efforts to simulate your meals on the road have fallen flat with the kids who tell me they will not be eating pigs tails on their toast. go figure.
I'm sorry about your camera. So great you have friends who can send you their photos. This route sounds quite rustic. Are there any wine spigots? How are your blisters? Keep up the great work! Miss you!
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