Yesterday, when we entered the town of Puente de la Reina, I noticed a cigueña(stork) flying overhead. In Spain you will find a lot of these elegant birds. They tend to build their large nests at the highest spot in town and in most Spanish villages this would mean on the domes and bell towers of churches. Sure enough, at the church just across from our hostel there were three or four large (a few feet across) nests made of twigs and sticks. When I lived in Spain, it took me a few weeks or months to identify the strange clicking sound that I heard as coming from the birds. The storks make a sound that I can´t describe but it is somewhat similar to the spinning wheel used in the boardgame ¨Life¨--you know, the one from the 70s where you push your plastic car around the playing board filling it with pink and blue peg people. The Wheel of Fortune style spinner made a sound sort of like these storks. When I lived in Spain I could look out my window and see several storks´ nests and I loved the sound they made. I think it was my favorite sound in Spain so last night I was delighted to see and hear the ciguenas. As a sidenote. You know how we say that storks deliver babies? In Spain they say that storks bring babies...from France. I have no idea why.
So, today I walked on my own and it was another short day (about 13 miles)--I think they suggest shorter days at the beginning to get you accostomed to the routine. I started out on the main road as advised by the priest and then got on the Camino proper which was pretty muddy for a stretch. Then I went through a very charming village and exited town via an old Roman road and Roman bridge. Then the most amazing thing happened. The clouds cleared and it was sunny with blue skies. It felt like the temperature shot up to the 60s and for the first time I was able to take off my raincoat AND my fleece jacket. It was amazing. It remained like that throughout the afternoon. I walked very quickly and it was mostly on the flat and after about 4 hours arrived here in Estella--a really beautiful little town. It has very narrow streets with old stone buildings and up behind the buildings is a rocky hill--it makes for a lovely backdrop for the town. There are a few very charming main squares.
As you probably know, Spanish mealtimes are very different from our own. They aren´t big breakfast eaters but at about 10 they may saunter down to the cafe for a coffee and some type of snack, then maybe pre-lunch tapas, then their big meal of the day at around 3 and a lighter dinner at 10. Although I easily adapted to this schedule when I lived here, it is not compatabile with the walking schedule so I have been eating mainly bocadillos (enormous sandwiches) and tapas because you can more easily get them throughout the day. Usually when we start out, breakfast isn´t available so I eat something like a granola bar or yogurt. Then around 10 or so I stop for a more substantial meal. The bocadillos are anywhere from about 8 to 14 inches long and are served on baguette type bread (only wider) so it is quite a lot of food. Of course, my very favorite meat in the world is jamon serrano--(the Spanish ham that is something like prosciutto) so I get that a lot and I´ve also been having one with grilled pork loin, cheese and roasted peppers that is pretty tasty. Last night at dinner I noted on the bill that my red wine was about a dollar and five cents and Ina´s Coke was nearly 3 dollars. I suspect that you can all imagine that I´ll be making out like a bandit on that account--got to watch the budget you know. (If you are Ms. Loughran´s Spanish students and have access to this--it is VERY bad to drink wine unless you are old and/or walking across Spain!)
As for an update as to the original characters--as you pass through villages, go to the hostels, and meet other walkers you can ask if they have seen a certain person, who stayed in each hostel last night, etc. We believe that young Juan is well ahead of us on his race across Spain so that he can get home to see his dog. When we see cyclists on the Camino we have them relay messages to those ahead of us. We believe that dear old Christian is about a half day ahead of us and hope he will be in Logroño in two days´time when we plan to get there but we´re not so sure. The dear Norwegians are behind us. Sadly the two Spanish men (the snorer and the eyeglass wearer) had to abandon the Camino as one of them had a death in the family. We were so sad to hear. We have a new companion, Toby, who is German and as a suprise we have run into Englebert, a tall German man that we met on night number one. Ina is here tonight as well and there is a funny Spanish couple from Tarragona that we met last night. The hostel where we are staying tonight is great. I was the first one there today and had the greatest shower ever--very hot and very strong water pressure. I washed clothes and hung them on the line to dry in the SUN! They are dry already. Life is good!
So, today I walked on my own and it was another short day (about 13 miles)--I think they suggest shorter days at the beginning to get you accostomed to the routine. I started out on the main road as advised by the priest and then got on the Camino proper which was pretty muddy for a stretch. Then I went through a very charming village and exited town via an old Roman road and Roman bridge. Then the most amazing thing happened. The clouds cleared and it was sunny with blue skies. It felt like the temperature shot up to the 60s and for the first time I was able to take off my raincoat AND my fleece jacket. It was amazing. It remained like that throughout the afternoon. I walked very quickly and it was mostly on the flat and after about 4 hours arrived here in Estella--a really beautiful little town. It has very narrow streets with old stone buildings and up behind the buildings is a rocky hill--it makes for a lovely backdrop for the town. There are a few very charming main squares.
As you probably know, Spanish mealtimes are very different from our own. They aren´t big breakfast eaters but at about 10 they may saunter down to the cafe for a coffee and some type of snack, then maybe pre-lunch tapas, then their big meal of the day at around 3 and a lighter dinner at 10. Although I easily adapted to this schedule when I lived here, it is not compatabile with the walking schedule so I have been eating mainly bocadillos (enormous sandwiches) and tapas because you can more easily get them throughout the day. Usually when we start out, breakfast isn´t available so I eat something like a granola bar or yogurt. Then around 10 or so I stop for a more substantial meal. The bocadillos are anywhere from about 8 to 14 inches long and are served on baguette type bread (only wider) so it is quite a lot of food. Of course, my very favorite meat in the world is jamon serrano--(the Spanish ham that is something like prosciutto) so I get that a lot and I´ve also been having one with grilled pork loin, cheese and roasted peppers that is pretty tasty. Last night at dinner I noted on the bill that my red wine was about a dollar and five cents and Ina´s Coke was nearly 3 dollars. I suspect that you can all imagine that I´ll be making out like a bandit on that account--got to watch the budget you know. (If you are Ms. Loughran´s Spanish students and have access to this--it is VERY bad to drink wine unless you are old and/or walking across Spain!)
As for an update as to the original characters--as you pass through villages, go to the hostels, and meet other walkers you can ask if they have seen a certain person, who stayed in each hostel last night, etc. We believe that young Juan is well ahead of us on his race across Spain so that he can get home to see his dog. When we see cyclists on the Camino we have them relay messages to those ahead of us. We believe that dear old Christian is about a half day ahead of us and hope he will be in Logroño in two days´time when we plan to get there but we´re not so sure. The dear Norwegians are behind us. Sadly the two Spanish men (the snorer and the eyeglass wearer) had to abandon the Camino as one of them had a death in the family. We were so sad to hear. We have a new companion, Toby, who is German and as a suprise we have run into Englebert, a tall German man that we met on night number one. Ina is here tonight as well and there is a funny Spanish couple from Tarragona that we met last night. The hostel where we are staying tonight is great. I was the first one there today and had the greatest shower ever--very hot and very strong water pressure. I washed clothes and hung them on the line to dry in the SUN! They are dry already. Life is good!
5 comments:
Laura, you paint such wonderful pictures of your journey. having been in the bed for 5 days with the flu, todays news of blue skies and pleasant weather made it a good day to catch up with you. descriptions the stone churches have me wanting to see photos, especially of the knights templar since my son has a sword a shield that are of that design. in our prayers and vicariously enjoying your new adventure. denise
wow, reading back over my post it seems I was still in a fog. I have no excuse such as foreign keyboards, sorry for the typos
Wow! What a great blog today. I so wish I was there with you (minus the cold showers, and snorers!) I once pinched my husbands nose shut in the middle of the night because I was so fed up with the snoring! :o) On another note, I'm really glad I am done with babies, would hate to have to add the "What does a stork say" noise to my repetoire! Brenna's favorite animal was always a giraffe and it always stumped me when she wanted to know what noise they make. Apparently they make a low non-sexual moan noise. (according to the book I'm reading) Another reason not to associate with the smaller crowd. But I digress! Can't wait to see pics. What happened to Ina? You said you walked alone this time, but met up with her again? I'm becoming attached to you and all your friends. :o) Let me clarify, I've always been attached to you. :o) Walk well!
Who knew you were such a great writer and that I would become hooked to your blog!! Just think, you will have great lessons for writer's workshop when you return! Ok nevermind, don't think about that. I want to try one of these sandwhiches you speak of...my meals these days consist of gummi bears and trail mix - low sodium!!:) Miss you and can't wait to read more.
Laura - As I was sharing your experiences with my mom, after the "wows" and "how exciting", she asked if you are Catholic. I guess talking of a pilgrimage does make it sound like a religious experience. Perhaps it is for you. I personally love to hear you refer to yourself as a pilgrim - it makes a certain picture of you at the "Biblioteca" bar in Salamanca come to mind. I believe it must have been Thanksgiving because you were actually wearing a "pilgrim" hat - next to Pepe in the Native American headress. Aside from that, I am LOVING keeping up with your blog. The first thing I do each day upon arrival at work is to check it - and it is not just an update for my students. You are great! When you feel you have had enough of teaching you can write a best-selling memoir. Oh, have you read the "Eat, Pray, Love" book? I am reading it now. I was not able to put the book down as I read through the Italy part. It reminded me of time in Spain with you - and by the way, I love the descriptions of your eating activities. However, now that I am on the India part I am having an easier time getting other things done besides reading the book. This saddens me a bit as I have joined a great Yoga group and thought I had found my new "group" to identify with. I'll read some more this evening and might have a different perspective. Can I write this much on your blog site? Am I just supposed to comment on your entry? I'll try to keep it shorter next time. My students are going to LOVE your reference to them in your entry today. Have a great day! Hey, why were you walking alone? Are the others sleeping in? I can't imagine you would be the one sleeping in. I remember that Estella was a cute town to visit from Logrono. I am anxiously awaiting your report on the tapas from Calle Laurel. Bye for now. Un abrazo! Lisa L.
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