So, Friday night I arrived in Roncesvalles, the main town to start my Camino. The bus to Roncesvalles chugged up the foothills of the Pyrenees and the snow was falling. They hold a mass each evening for the pilgrims. Walking into the lovely old church with the snow falling down was really beautiful. Four priests conducted the mass and yes, there were 4 of us attending the mass so I guess one priest per pilgrim. It was nice as they said a blessing in several languages. Then I went straight to bed and felt so happy to be able to lie down after the cramped airplane ride, sitting in airport, other airplane ride, sitting in bus station, bus, etc.
So, today I´m on day two of walking and over the last two days there has been a light drizzle off and on but mostly off so walking has been really pleasant and not too cold. Even though there are lots of people walking, about the same group of 9 of us have been at the same hostels the last two nights. Even though I know there are people ahead of us and behind us, it seems like we´re the only ones walking...
Here´s a brief run down of the cast of characters...
Norwegian couple-they are retired and live in a village in the South of France. The wife is some sort of pioneer in the world of interational quilting. She is featured in an upcoming magazine and has exhibits of her work. Their son makes 24 foot long origami sculptures and also does some sort of performance art that includes playing some sort of noise box with different sounds while a light show of computer generated origami designs is displayed. I'm not making this up. I walked most of the first day with them.
Juan Jose--teenaged Spanish vegan who is mourning the loss of his hair. Evidently at the end of his 2000 euro flight attendant course he was told that he would have to cut his waist length hair in order to graduate from the course. He did and now has shoulder length hair. He is quite distraught about this. He has decided to complete the camino in 20 days and is walking 25 miles today--leaving us in the dust --as he really misses his dog (a boxer) he is eager to get home. Additionally he was recently kicked out of a heavy metal band as he disagreed with the singer over the name of the band. He packs like Becci Sponseller --bringing a 1000 plus page novel, a large container of energy drink powder mix, full sized containers of shampoo, toothpaste, etc. He is really his own person and we wish him well--unless he falls injured though, we doubt we will see him again.
Ina--very nice young German girl preparing for her teacher´s exam. I'm walking with her today. As far as I know she is no relation to the barefoot contessa
The two spaniards--one sleeps in his eyeglasses, the other snores
and...
My hero, "The French Guy". He started over a month ago on his walk--he walked from France. When he gets to Santiago he will turn around and walk back to France but must stop on May 15 so he will only go as far as that takes him. His age is indeterminate due to the wrinkles which I can only guess are caused by the extensive smoking. Last night´s hostel was horribly cold and he just sat outside smoking, writing in a journal and having a beer. Sadly, apart from gestures and the odd word here or there, we are unable to communicate although the Norwegians are excellent interpreters.
We all went out last night to eat dinner as a big group. We arrived at the hostel at 3 p.m. and found no bars, no restaurants, nothing. As a last resort, the two Spaniards went to the sports center to see about the possibility of a vending machine but to no avail. Hungry, bored, and cold, we later learned (around 6 pm.) of a restaurant about a mile down the highway so we all went there on foot. We were so, so, happy, it was warm AND they had food. Really not much more to ask for than that. We have a short day today--walked about 9 miles so far and are in the city of Pamplona and will continue on about 3 more miles to the next stop. I´m really having a good time and it doesn´t seem too hard. I guess I prepared well. The pack doesn´t seem to heavy--it is MUCH smaller than everyone else´s but then again, I guess they are more likely to have clean clothes and other such luxuries. There´s a rumor of washing machine at tonight´s hostel.
So, today I´m on day two of walking and over the last two days there has been a light drizzle off and on but mostly off so walking has been really pleasant and not too cold. Even though there are lots of people walking, about the same group of 9 of us have been at the same hostels the last two nights. Even though I know there are people ahead of us and behind us, it seems like we´re the only ones walking...
Here´s a brief run down of the cast of characters...
Norwegian couple-they are retired and live in a village in the South of France. The wife is some sort of pioneer in the world of interational quilting. She is featured in an upcoming magazine and has exhibits of her work. Their son makes 24 foot long origami sculptures and also does some sort of performance art that includes playing some sort of noise box with different sounds while a light show of computer generated origami designs is displayed. I'm not making this up. I walked most of the first day with them.
Juan Jose--teenaged Spanish vegan who is mourning the loss of his hair. Evidently at the end of his 2000 euro flight attendant course he was told that he would have to cut his waist length hair in order to graduate from the course. He did and now has shoulder length hair. He is quite distraught about this. He has decided to complete the camino in 20 days and is walking 25 miles today--leaving us in the dust --as he really misses his dog (a boxer) he is eager to get home. Additionally he was recently kicked out of a heavy metal band as he disagreed with the singer over the name of the band. He packs like Becci Sponseller --bringing a 1000 plus page novel, a large container of energy drink powder mix, full sized containers of shampoo, toothpaste, etc. He is really his own person and we wish him well--unless he falls injured though, we doubt we will see him again.
Ina--very nice young German girl preparing for her teacher´s exam. I'm walking with her today. As far as I know she is no relation to the barefoot contessa
The two spaniards--one sleeps in his eyeglasses, the other snores
and...
My hero, "The French Guy". He started over a month ago on his walk--he walked from France. When he gets to Santiago he will turn around and walk back to France but must stop on May 15 so he will only go as far as that takes him. His age is indeterminate due to the wrinkles which I can only guess are caused by the extensive smoking. Last night´s hostel was horribly cold and he just sat outside smoking, writing in a journal and having a beer. Sadly, apart from gestures and the odd word here or there, we are unable to communicate although the Norwegians are excellent interpreters.
We all went out last night to eat dinner as a big group. We arrived at the hostel at 3 p.m. and found no bars, no restaurants, nothing. As a last resort, the two Spaniards went to the sports center to see about the possibility of a vending machine but to no avail. Hungry, bored, and cold, we later learned (around 6 pm.) of a restaurant about a mile down the highway so we all went there on foot. We were so, so, happy, it was warm AND they had food. Really not much more to ask for than that. We have a short day today--walked about 9 miles so far and are in the city of Pamplona and will continue on about 3 more miles to the next stop. I´m really having a good time and it doesn´t seem too hard. I guess I prepared well. The pack doesn´t seem to heavy--it is MUCH smaller than everyone else´s but then again, I guess they are more likely to have clean clothes and other such luxuries. There´s a rumor of washing machine at tonight´s hostel.
3 comments:
how interesting and lovely this adventure sounds--and i can't believe it's only been a few days. i love reading your blog--pls keep writing! screw the clean clothes; i'm glad your pack is not too heavy.
I LOVE reading your adventures. I'm almost jealous although the thought or even the rumor that I might be cold and hungry with no appeasement available makes my children's stinkhole bathroom (which now smells delightfully like bleach although one's eyes do tend to water if spending more than 5 minutes in there) seem like the more pleasureable choice! Can't wait for the next installment. Thank goodness I'm working this week (4th grade) or I might just sit at my computer hitting the refresh button waiting for the next installment! Keep on Walking (and writing!)
L Potts - If it IS a person related to the Barefoot Contessa, I definitely need a picture and more information! I love Ina Gartner almost as much as I love Stacy and Clinton...sometimes moreso!!
LOVE reading your blog. You go, girl!
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