When Pretty Boy Juan announced last week that he would walk 40 km (24 miles) per day, we thought he was crazy. Oddly, I¨ve been walking between 20-24 miles everyday for the last 4 days. I don´t set out to do so though. I get up, plan to go 15-18 miles and I do...but I arrive at the village at about 11:30 a.m. The alberegues don´t open until about 4 and these villages have maybe one bar or a church so then I decide I might as well keep walking. And then, in the back of my mind I have it that maybe if I go the extra mile, I will catch the Norwegians or Christian. There will be no forthcoming novel but I do think that ¨Catching Norwegians¨ or "Chasing Etienne¨(I know his name is Christian but then in might seem like a religious story) might be good titles. Anyway, today was particularly grueling--about 25 miles . The weather was not as windy as yesterday but cold which was fine with me. I wore my orange fleece cap the whole day (a first). Before I came here I thought I´d really like getting to cities but a strnge thing has happened. After walking in rural places alone, the cities make me uneasy. I mean, I feel safe there and not intimidated but I want to leave. Also, following the trail in the city is harder as you tend to be looking around at shops, etc. and lose sight of the yellow arrows. Invariably, some kind Spanish person will spot the hapless dorks in the backpacks and send them the right direction.
Last night was fun. The more we see people that we know, the more family atmosphere there is. Alex, a young Austrian announced that he would buy groceries and cook for the whole group (about 12 of us). We all gave him a couple of bucks towards food and wine and he made a pretty good stew for us. Korean Dana, Ina, Toby were there as well and two Hungarian girls, a couple of other Germans and a French foursome. The France contingent was comprised of a man and two women in their late 50s and the fourth was...a two year old Black Lab named Velour. ¨Velou¨is the seeing eyedog of the French gentlemen who is blind. We had so much fun and we enjoyed having Velou in the dorm with us.
Like I said, today was a long hard walk--lots of pretty views but lots of rocky hills. The worst part was arriving in Burgos--I had to walk the last 8 miles of the 25 down a noisy road with factories and warehouses. It was not charming...I did get to see pretty Burgos but was competely spent when I arrived here. My feet felt so tired, I felt so tired and hoped their would be space for me as there is no way I could go further. As I sat at the desk registering and yapping with the old, funny, Spanish guy working here...I looked up and saw my hero, Christian. At last we have found him. I am reveling in the happiness of seeing my dear friend. That and a shower have done wonders for me and I guess I´ll be ready for another 40k tomorrow.
Last night was fun. The more we see people that we know, the more family atmosphere there is. Alex, a young Austrian announced that he would buy groceries and cook for the whole group (about 12 of us). We all gave him a couple of bucks towards food and wine and he made a pretty good stew for us. Korean Dana, Ina, Toby were there as well and two Hungarian girls, a couple of other Germans and a French foursome. The France contingent was comprised of a man and two women in their late 50s and the fourth was...a two year old Black Lab named Velour. ¨Velou¨is the seeing eyedog of the French gentlemen who is blind. We had so much fun and we enjoyed having Velou in the dorm with us.
Like I said, today was a long hard walk--lots of pretty views but lots of rocky hills. The worst part was arriving in Burgos--I had to walk the last 8 miles of the 25 down a noisy road with factories and warehouses. It was not charming...I did get to see pretty Burgos but was competely spent when I arrived here. My feet felt so tired, I felt so tired and hoped their would be space for me as there is no way I could go further. As I sat at the desk registering and yapping with the old, funny, Spanish guy working here...I looked up and saw my hero, Christian. At last we have found him. I am reveling in the happiness of seeing my dear friend. That and a shower have done wonders for me and I guess I´ll be ready for another 40k tomorrow.
8 comments:
Laura- the unfolding adventures and mysteries of your new-found family keep me riveted to your story. Walk on. Can't wait til the next stop. Char
I am so confused. Why, exactly, is this Christian character the "hero"? Aside from smoking, which you do not seem to admire when I do it, I do not know what about him is heroic. Also, what gives with the omission of spanish gnome sightings? The ones that like rum, sour milk and cigarettes...or any other kind... WAIT - is this Christian, perhaps, a gnome? Do tell. I very much like your Secret Code of Orange Peels Art. Please continue to post - despite your alleged sore feet; my feet hurt way more than yours, and I do not get to see any quaint scenery or drink wine at 8:43 a.m., so , obviously, your Official Professional Blog entries are the Highlight of My Day. Stay injury- free!
Burgos? I'm so jealous. That is where my aunt grew up and where she and my uncle were married. I spent a summer there years ago. I finally feel like I can really visualize your travels. I've been visualizing your fellows travelers clearly through your writing. I'm loving your posts. Thanks!
Potts - Unbelievable! 24 miles a day? I officially feel lazy. It took me all morning to get the strength to shower! I am so proud of you and can't wait to hear about your next stop. Love ya!
Good Lord Woman! How do you walk 20-24 miles BEFORE 11:30am!! What time do you start walking? The night before??? I've always said I didn't think I could even walk a marathon and here you are practically doing it everyday, over and over. You are IRON-WOMAN! (This being said in my head in the appropriate Black Sabbath song tradition!) I can't tell you how excited I was when you met up wth Christian - did a little happy dance right in my chair. I'm enjoying your adventures so much! Thanks for taking the time to share with all of us! Still amazes me that you can be doing all this walking in rural areas and still get internet connection every night! Write and Walk on!
Your comment about not wanting to hang out in the cities gave me an image of a bunch of Maria Angeles and fancy pants characters walking past any backpacker with their noses held high. I have always appreciated the charm of the villages, or as Miguel taught me how to say, the hamlets, in northern Spain. I can't believe you are walking so much each day! WOW! I think I remember Burgos being known for its blood sausage, but I can't remember anything else except for an expected cathedral to be noticed. This Friday is Good Friday, so are you having to alter any of your routines because of more people on the camino, yet? Have a super day! Love, Lisa
Laura,
You are a "blogging" natural. I love reading it. Especially liked the build up to finding Cristian in the last one.
Michelle
Finisterre anyone?
What is the name of your bullfighter friend who picked you up hitchhiking? Could he be Jose Tomas, whose picture was in the WA Post last Sunday in an article about cloning successful bulls for the sport?
Are you walking with Cristian and Velour?
Your blog entries are the highlight of my day, too! Keep them coming! When is your day off? If you don't take one soon, I'm afraid I may not catch up with you!
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